Portoviejo Ecuador
Over three years after the 7.8 earthquake, the city of Portoviejo continues to recover. Empty lots replace where historic buildings once stood. Lingering remnants of colonial houses reveal gaping holes through the roofs. Doves perch in convenient areas in the park while iguanas bask in the shade or nibble leaves and flowers.
Over the past two days I have ambled the streets near the museum, photographed the birds, iguanas and the sunlit streets. Something is missing, however.
Where are the cars?
My friend Alexandra sent words of warning, a bit too late, as I was already on the streets. “Lisa! Tomorrow might be bad! Don’t go out, seriously – don’t go out…”” I did not receive her warnings until I had walked the area in search of a cyber option. Military and Policemen stood guard, but all was calm as you can see in the slide show below.
One man pointed me several blocks ‘arriba’ for a cyber, but most stores were closed. I walked left and discovered a three-story gallery – wow, that’s another story!
After half an hour with the owner, I returned to the streets and greeted the owner of a small tienda where I often buy bananas and eggs. Excited, he pointed me half a block over and ‘arriba’ to see the march. “March?” Yes, a march – a peaceful one.
Lingering several blocks behind the march, I took photos and observed. When they turned left, so did I – across construction ones, and waited two blocks over until the march came closer.
Perusing images taken during the march, I often paused and wondered about each person. What personal and unique conflicts did each one face? What did they truly think about this present crisis which erupted with such force? Oftentimes the older folks seemed to be thinking, ‘What on earth has happened to my country?’ Some seemed to be proud to be part of the event, but maybe they were not sure why. Some were tapping into the collective power of the group and finding a voice they’d been unable to state alone. Some seemed curious, others maybe not so sure about what they’d been coaxed into joining. They really did not want trouble – they just wanted this to end.
Some had faces and expressions that stated, ‘I am a good person, and even now in this chaos, my inner core remains unchanged. we will get through this.’ Glancing behind, one man’s expression seemed to state, ‘I’m not sure if any of this is effective. Are we doing more harm than good?” His eyes looked sad.
With arms pulled straight down and tight against his torso, one man looked as if trying to be invisible, but he wanted to witness what was happening. I wondered if I appeared the same way! The smiles were always a welcome sight and oh so important for keeping the group in a peaceful mood.
One man’s t-shirt stated, ‘Grandpa knows everything,’ which made me smile. I wondered if he knew the message; his body English suggested that he made it a point to be informed, and he injected others with humor. Humor is important, and the man just beyond him peered directly at me as if to ponder, ‘Is she with us or against us?’ Looks like that make me uncomfortable, and probably necessary to keep me on guard.
Some were angry and happy to have an outlet. The latter remind me to always be careful, even when things seem to be peaceful.
Remaining at the corner I watched as the group meandered to the next curve, turned right and moved out of sight.
Returning via the ongoing closed-street renovation areas, I returned for a final walk near the museum and park. Pausing at the barricade I photographed the day before, I noted damage to the fence.
“When did this happen?” I asked the policeman guarding the barricade area.
“About an hour ago,” he stated.
Disappointment and sadness pounced on my psyche. “Serious?’ I replied, but of course he was serious, and the charred tires and barricade provided proof. “I just photographed this area yesterday…” I stated, still incredulous that the collective venom of the protest was released at this point. While I was in the lobby of Ceibo Dorado Hotel and answering emails, an ugly act of protest branded the streets about six blocks away.
The policeman gestured toward the charred leaves of the young tree, planted perhaps six months ago and just beginning its journey skyward. I touched the tree with compassion and again pondered the greater picture – so many angry people on this planet.. so many warning signs… another parallel with the Tale of Two Cities. It would be easy for me to retort with my own anger – to state, ‘STOP THIS VIOLENCE!’ – but I suppose this has to play out….
Nearby other policemen took their lunch break… life has to go on, and they have to rest between moments of conflict.
“Yes,” my neighbor who sells cold drinks at the corner, “they burned tires.. here is a video…” and his video seemed a bit surreal.
He warned me that it might get worse around 4, and I assured him that I was going home and planned to stay there for the rest of the day and night!
Little happened, but from time to time I went to the roof terrace and photographed a few smoke signals in different areas, and the helicopters which watched from higher vantage points.
The city appeared ‘normal’ this morning, but a walk to the corner newsstand confirmed that the country remains in crisis.
For a personal and up-close report from Cuenca, read Laurie Paternoster’s “Lessons from a Strike.”
Seeing footage and videos of the beautiful city of Quito makes me wince, and I wonder about my friends who live there – it must be very difficult to witness and also very scary.
Thank you for hanging through this extra-long post, which means you have a strong interest in Ecuador – and that you care. Thank you.
Until the next update,
Lisa
Lee Simpson said:
Good grief. I hope you truly can stay safe. Thanks for sending the video of Quito cause that really brings it home. Its so easy to be insulated here, tho one has to wonder what is coming here between now and the next election.
A big hug for you and for Ecuadorians and for the country itself!
Lee
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
Thank you Lee, and I wonder what’s happening in those bird-rich areas – I suspect that all areas are being impacted by lack of tourism/the dollar… the birds of course are fine – unless where the smoke is polluting the air… Thank you!
wildcatpat said:
I don’t see my comments I just made!! Sis, sorry to hear there is so much unrest and turmoil in beautiful Ecuador. Looks like traffic is pretty much at a standstill and, give the situation there, I’m assuming there is NO POSSIBLE WAY you’ll be here this weekend for your class reunion. Mike Beadel has asked me several times if you would be there.
I’m praying that things will be resolved very soon and that things will get back to normal. I think of you daily and hope to see you in the near future. Love you, Pat
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
Hey Pat, and thanks for your comment. No, too many warring items in this segment of the calendar, and the greatest right now would be trying to reach any destination – unless as \i joked (but not|) by burro! It’s sunny and lovely outside today and I enjoyed a long leisurely walk around the area where I love. So hard to compare with what is happening in the Andes. Time to check the news and see if there’s hope for a solution….
restlessjo said:
So distressing to read this, Lisa! Stay safe, hon. So much sadness out there… and anger and bewilderment.
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
Si, thanks, and I’ve been watching/reading your posts – sometimes when off line and the images are not loaded – but always refreshing — especially now. Keep holding strong and positive energy to your side of the world!
hughcurtler said:
How very sad….
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
With anticipation of better changes each morning, we awaken and wonder, ‘What’s the news for today…” Alas the museo is open (barely – with guards staffing the desk) but it’s better than being closed. Thank you Hugh.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers said:
Wow….we can understand the average citizen being upset but why the indigenes? We just read that 100’s of Amazon warriors have decended on Quito. How on earth would they be affected by the increase in fuel prices?
Is the airport open?
Stay safe!
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
Thank you for your feedback, and I regret that today my time is more limited than usual. Here are two links that I sent friends, and so far (I don’t have internet at home) their summaries help explain the problems:
https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2019/10/ecuador-unrest-led-mass-protests-191010193825529.html
and start around minute 7…
today it’s very quieut in downtown portoviejo, but i’ve been busy working on that floor… if anyone has any other links – or updates – please add!
shoreacres said:
To continue my thoughts from your previous post: I’ve also been pondering “The Second Coming” by William Butler Yeats. It captures so much of the complexity and ambiguity found today in Ecuador, the United States, Venezuela, Turkey, Ukraine:
Turning and turning in the widening gyre
The falcon cannot hear the falconer;
Things fall apart; the centre cannot hold;
Mere anarchy is loosed upon the world,
The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhere
The ceremony of innocence is drowned;
The best lack all conviction, while the worst
Are full of passionate intensity.
Surely some revelation is at hand;
Surely the Second Coming is at hand.
The Second Coming! Hardly are those words out
When a vast image out of Spiritus Mundi
Troubles my sight: a waste of desert sand;
A shape with lion body and the head of a man,
A gaze blank and pitiless as the sun,
Is moving its slow thighs, while all about it
Wind shadows of the indignant desert birds.
The darkness drops again but now I know
That twenty centuries of stony sleep
Were vexed to nightmare by a rocking cradle,
And what rough beast, its hour come round at last,
Slouches towards Bethlehem to be born?
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
Linda thank you SO MUCH for this! I’m hurried right now – museo is open but not for long — and anyone will appreciate what you’ve shared. Grrrrracias!
Lynda said:
I worry for you, my friend. Be safe. ❤
rangewriter said:
Lisa, I was just listening to reports about the uprisings in Ecuador and wondered how you were faring. Violence is everywhere. I keep wondering how long it will be before civil war breaks out in The States. There is so much anger seething here. And I don’t see an end. No matter how the next national elections turns out, we have a country that has bifurcated into such dramatically different perspectives. And the tools of protest have become infinitely more destructive. Keep being smart and careful in your journeys.
johnandmarylivingitupinecuador said:
Stay safe amiga, we’re hunkered down in San Clemente but will have to go to PV tomorrow, ortho doc for John’s knees and hopefully supermaxi will have a few things that we need to hold us over for a couple more weeks… our hearts cry for Ecuador
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
Next time you plan to be at Supermaxi, I’ll zip over there and say ‘hi’ — and you’re always welcome to pack a bag and use the apt as a home base when you have lots on your list for the day… Thanks, and thanks God the crisis is much better….
Steve Schwartzman said:
American television “news” has said nothing about Ecuador. Online I found an article from September
https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/americas/ecuador-data-breach-leak-novaestrat-server-vpnmentor-a9108111.html
and one from October:
https://www.cnn.com/2019/10/08/americas/ecuador-government-protests-scli-intl/index.html
I’m relieved to hear you’re still safe and living in one place.
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
All is calm here, but Chile and Bolivia and even Colombia are having problems as well. The people are speaking up, and that can be good.
bluebrightly said:
Your insights into the moods of individuals and the country are sharp and to the point…I’m sure that by now, things have changed…October was crazy for me, and November too, but things have calmed down here, so I hope they have for you and for Ecuador too.
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
Yes, it’s quiet now as if nothing happened.. but in the Andes, I think that the Indigenous are still trying to be attentive to changes… So many countries still with discontent smoldering (including ours) these are indeed volatile times.