While long check-out lines and snarled traffic hamper the flow of many people’s holiday routines, life in rural Ecuador delivers its own set of travel frustrations. Bus routes spider from terminals in key cities and provide inexpensive options throughout the day and night. With gasoline prices a constant $1.48, taxi and private drivers can help passengers reach a destination faster and with more personal service at a fair price. At a cost of fifty cents to several dollars, mototaxis in smaller towns help you get from A to B much faster than walking.
But what does one do when one lives half an hour via 4-wheel drive from town and the cell phone signal doesn’t stretch over the mountain? Here at my friends’ property near Mindo, one can usually catch a ride to town with Ingo, a neighbor who drives to town each day and passes the gates at 8:30 sharp! A twelve-dollar taxi-truck is always available in town for the return trip!
Last week I walked to the gate at 8:15 sharp, and ten or so minutes later two men rode by on mules. By 8:45 I chuckled to myself, “Ha! Ingo’s becoming Ecuadorian!” Ecuadorians are known to be predictably late! I put down my bags and began pulling clumps of grass near the gate.
Around 9:15, Luz drove by on her milk-pickup route. I asked if I could ride when she reached the end of her route and passed back by the gates. Twenty minutes later, I climbed over the wooden slats and happily perched on a bag of feed! The higher vantage point allowed me to spot new details in the landscape, and I looked forward to experiencing this new mode of travel!
But wait – instead of veering right and four-wheel-driving up the mountain, we veered slightly left and continued along the river! Eureka! New territory! I was about to find out what was at the end of the road!!!
Every five to ten minutes, we stopped for the containers of milk; most of the farmers waited, and they watched as Luz and her son measured the depth of the milk and transferred it into their containers. Each stop took more time than normal, as Luz was quite distressed that a new woman had invaded her territory and was stealing her customers!
Each time the truck rolled to a stop, I stood up and grinned at the farmers, who seemed quite shocked to see a ‘gringa’ emerge from the truck. “Papparazi!” I smiled each time as I photographed the details at each stop.
When we reached the end of the road, I thought, ‘Whew! Now we’ll turn around and will go to town!” – But no – there was a bridge, and we were about to cross it!
We snaked through bamboo shrouded roads and slowly climbed to the crest of one ridge where two cans of milk marked the end of the route. After the truck turned around, we collected the milk and began to retrace our route. Whew! Yes, this time we were Mindo bound!
Two other passengers boarded the truck for the ride to Mindo, and we stopped once more to collect milk. A bit sun and wind burned, I bailed out at high noon in town at Caskaffesu Hostal and Restaurant, where my friends Susan and Luis were having an impromptu music session!
As with last week’s Timeout for Art post, this was written offline in the hopes that I’ll find a way to bridge the distance between paradise and cyberspace! PS: It’s being finished at the Delta Baggage Claim area at the Quito airport, where my friend hopes to claim her ‘misplaced’ luggage that did not arrive in the wee hours when they landed!!
Teresa Chong said:
My dear friend how I would like to see you in that adventure, you are incredible, you make me laugh a lot with your somewhat funny and real stories, my respects for you, you rescue the essence of our people you make me love my country thank you “gringa” (with all respect).
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
amiga! thank you so much! i’m glad that my stories of your country make you smile! we’re way overdue a visit!
z
The Wanderlust Gene said:
What treasure adventures provide! 🙂
foresterartist said:
Hey Z, glad you didn’t fall of the the milk truck, or the wagon for that matter. 😉
travelerlynne said:
Instant cyber connections don’t have these kinds of stories. I can see why you wouldn’t want to go anywhere without a camera. 🙂
hughcurtler said:
What a fascinating life you lead!
Barneysday said:
What a refreshing story. Reminds me of my childhood with my grandfather and his milk route to supply his “fresh from the cows” product to local customers. Thanks for the inspiration!!!
Gallivanta said:
How resourceful you are 🙂 Were you allowed to have a drink of milk enroute?
btg5885 said:
Thanks for the journey. This was fun.
restlessjo said:
I enjoyed sharing the adventure with you, Lisa ! Merry Christmas to you, in case we don’t manage to connect again in cyberspace 🙂
pommepal said:
What a unique trip into town, far more interesting than the direct route. I love the story and your patience and resourcefulness. Have a very happy Christmas Lisa. Where ever you will be.
shoreacres said:
Can you hear me laughing, all the way to wherever you are? There it is! The USB colander! jajajajaja! How’s that thing wired up? I’m assuming it’s “inline” somehow, but I can’t quite get my mind around it. I do see what seems to be the USB port connected to the colander.
Love the “milk run”, too. When I visited the Konza prairie in Kansas, the rain gauges looked just like the metal milk containers you show here – in fact, they call them “the milk jugs”.
I know this – you’re probably the most respectful papparazi in the world! Just in case you don’t get online again – Merry Christmas!
MarciaGB said:
I loved this post. What a great adventure!
cindyricksgers said:
You are quite the daredevil, I think! I could feel myself getting nervous the instant the route wasn’t as planned…but you just viewed it as an added adventure. Wonderful! You inspire me to take life as it happens…thank you!
firstandfabulous said:
That was a fun ride! 😉
Rewired and Retired in Nicaragua said:
Got milk? Jejeje. This cracked me up. How much fun can you have in one day? Safe travels mi amiga.
Rosa de los Vientos said:
You made me smile throughout the post, and the photo at the end was really too much!! 😀
bentehaarstad said:
How interesting to see this transportation of milk. Exactly as when I grew up, some decades ago.. 🙂
vastlycurious.com said:
I saved this to read at a later time and i am so very glad that I did.What a great existence you have! Love your story and fresh milk !
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
you are so great! thank you so much, and i totally understand about saving reading material until one has time to enjoy! i’m saving ‘internet’ time for when i can do the same with back posts that i’ve missed.
you’re in the bull’s eye, though again i am in transit! z
vastlycurious.com said:
Thanks ZZZZZZ !
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